

Some, like Fitzgerald, found fame waiting for them when they arrived. Others, like Hemingway, came to Paris to claim the fame they knew was rightfully theirs if they could just find the right bull to take by the horns. But in reality, they all came in search of the same thing: a generation lost and forgotten, they came to Paris in search of inspiration. They came in search of their Muse.

Joining me was Talton Gibson, a longtime traveling companion who had agreed to photograph the excursion for posterity. I felt comfortable Talton was just the man for the job as he had accompanied me on my last literary trek to Pamplona, Spain, where together we had experienced firsthand the week of debauchery and danger made famous by the man whose home would begin this tour.
Hemingway’s first home: 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine
Hemingway’s first apartment is located on top of a hill overlooking an area called Pont Sully.

I have been told that if you catch the tenant who lives in the fourth floor apartment occupied by Hemingway, he might grant you an audience and show you around the place. I ring the bell several times, but apparently he isn’t in so I have to settle for the street view.



The provincial, working-class neighborhood seems to be pretty much like it was when Hemingway moved in. Considering the former occupant, there is one thing oddly out of place. Just to the right of the lacquered wooden door is a women’s boutique. Purses, tablecloths and dozens of other dainty items fill the windows and spill out into the street. Everything I know about Hemingway suggests that even in his formative years he was a “man’s man” long before the term machismo became synonymous with him. The fact that those searching for Hemingway’s first apartment are probably told, “It’s just above the Chiffon print in the window— you can’t miss it,” probably has him rolling in his grave.
Hemingway’s studio: 39 rue Descartes
Just around the corner is the attic room Hemingway rented in 1922 as a writing studio after he and his first wife, Hadley, settled in at rue Cardinal-Lemoine. The first floor of the building is a bistro, and we catch the waiter rolling

The view from the small, attic room is quite spectacular. Hemingway’s depictions of it in The Snows of Kilimanjaro and A Moveable Feast tell of jagged rooftops, smoking chimneys and the hills of Paris rising and falling in the distance. But we’ll have to take Hemingway’s word for it. The waiter has just alerted a tenant

It’s still early in the walk, but the climb to the top of rue du Cardinal-Lemoine was a bit more than we had bargained for, and we’ve worked up quite a thirst. So counting on the Hemingway lore to be true he never took up residence in an area where a bar was more than a stone’s throw away, we press on in search of a drink.
Café des Amateurs: Place de la Contrescarpe
Hemingway spent many an afternoon at a little watering hole called Café des Amateurs in Place de la Contrescpare, which, we are told, is “just around the corner.” The only problem is that when we turn the corner, there are nothing but cafés lining the small roundabout. We decide to pull up a chair at Café des Arts for no reason other than it’s the first one we come to. We trust Hemingway used this rather simplistic logic when he, too, wanted to unwind after a long day of work.
When the waiter arrives, Talton orders a Stella beer from the tap and I go with a Buckler, a non-alcohol malt beverage. I know my selection is very un-

The sun is slowly beginning to slide past those rooftops we might have seen had we thought to offer to carry that woman’s groceries up to her apartment a few moments ago. It won’t get dark for a while, but we decide to move on to our next destination nevertheless. Gertrude Stein’s salon awaits us.

Stein’s salon was the hub of literary activity in post-war Paris in the 1910s, ‘20s and ‘30s. Nearly every expatriate living in the city over that 20-year period made the pilgrimage to Stein’s salon at one point. Hemingway’s first visit was in March of 1922. He came armed with three items: a short story about his boyhood called “Up in Michigan,” an unfinished novel he had had to begin anew after Hadley lost his first draft on the train en route to Paris, and a letter of introduction to Stein from the American novelist, Sherwood Anderson. All I’ve got is a half-eaten baguette, and a serious case of the hiccups from that non-alcoholic beer I drank much too fast.
As we arrive at number 27, a plaque greets us. Through the wrought iron doors a long hallway stretches into a courtyard, and if you angle yourself just off to the far right side of the glass doors you can see what appears to be a greenhouse. This is the place.

Not especially keen on getting yet another “it’s right over there” picture taken in yet another darkened doorway, I put the camera back in my bag. When I look up, however, I notice the wrought iron door is now slightly ajar, the result of a careless French garbage collector who has mistaken us for your run-of-the-mill lost tourists, rather than the aspiring literary aficionados we have become.
Moving quickly down the hallway and into the courtyard, I instruct Talton to get the camera back out of the bag. As he does, I peer through the window of the first floor of Gertrude Stein’s former abode. The interior of the salon is just as I suspect it appeared when Stein held court here in the 1920s and ‘30s. A few gilded frames adorn the walls, and while I doubt the

In spite of the confusion, we manage to get a picture of me peering over a fern, the greenhouse prominently featured in the background. Realizing I’m not going to find my Muse here, we continue to move (quickly, I might add) west along rue Fleurus to the third of four Hemingway haunts we will visit today.
Hadley Hemingway: 35 rue de Fleurus
Thirty-five rue de Fleurus was the temporary home into which Hadley Hemingway, their infant son, Bumby,

For the first time on the walk, I’m beginning to feel somewhat disillusioned. In the 1920s and ‘30s, there was an unspoken sentiment that if you went to Paris and walked the streets walked by those who came before you, then whatever it was that had inspired them would seep up through the cobblestones and inspire a generation anew. But where is this Lost Generation for which I am tirelessly searching? Certainly it is not inside this building before me—a building once frequented by one of the greatest writers of his generation–but today could easily pass as corporate headquarters for some faceless Fortune 500 company.
Despite my disillusionment, I am comforted by the fact that out of the restlessness Hemingway experienced from his failed marriage and increasing resentment of the Left Bank intelligentsia came inspiration. The result was The Sun Also Rises, one of the most lyrical and adeptly finessed books of the 20th century. It was the novel Hemingway had come to Paris in search of.
My search for inspiration, however, continues.

The next stop on my hunt is the apartment into which Hemingway and Pauline moved shortly after his marriage with Hadley was formally absolved in January 1927. When Hemingway

It is unclear exactly which apartment belonged to the Hemingways, but a little mishap that took place late one evening in the spring of 1928 suggests it was on the top floor. The story goes something like this: One night after arriving home late and probably a bit intoxicated, Hemingway inadvertently pulled a cord controlling a skylight in his bathroom. The windowpane came crashing down on him, resulting in a large, two-inch gash across his forehead just above his left eye. Hemingway probably spent the rest of the night concocting some fantastic story about how he had obtained the injury. He was due for a publicity photo in front of the Shakespeare & Company bookstore early the next morning, however, so any tale he manufactured was probably dismissed since everyone knew the only thing he was hunting for the previous night was the bathroom light.
F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald: 58 rue de Vaugirard
F. Scott and Zelda lived in a half dozen apartments during their time in Paris. Like our previous destination, however, there’s an interesting story behind this one.

Feeling a bit out of place in the presence of such affluence, I decide it’s time to pay homage to a fellow Southerner, a provincial Mississippian by the name of William Faulkner, who in the summer and fall of 1925 lived just around the corner.
William Faulkner: 26 rue Servandoni
I know little about Faulkner’s time in Paris other than that it was brief and he made no attempt


Indeed, I have seen quite a bit over the course of a single afternoon. But despite all I have seen, the thing I have come looking for still eludes me. My feet have grown tired and heavy, but nothing weighs on my mind as much as the thought of returning home to Los Angeles without the spark of inspiration I need to set my novel in motion.
I am so consumed by my thoughts that before I even realize it, I am standing on Quai Saint-Michel, a busy street that runs along the River Seine directly across from Notre Dame. The street is lined with stalls from which vendors hawk an array of artwork, old French paperbacks and various other Parisian keepsakes. I decide to talk a walk along the river and unwind.
And then I see it.
Shakespeare & Company Bookstore: 37 rue de la Bucherie
There I am standing in front of the Shakespeare & Company Bookstore, the center of the literary universe for the first 40 years of the 20th century— and I had just stumbled upon it?

It turns out this ‘cashier’ is none other than George Whitman, the eccentric American who has

As I reach the top of the stairs, it’s as if I have just entered some sort of literary crypt from the turn of the century. Each of the rooms, none of which is any bigger tha


As I turn to walk out of the library and perhaps test out one of those cots myself, a sign above the doorframe stops me cold in my tracks:
BE NOT INHOSPITABLE TO STRANGERS
LEST THEY BE ANGELS IN DISGUISE
And then it hits me like a lightening bolt. Inside the covers of these books, wrapped around me like a warm, comforting blanket, are the angels of inspiration I have been seeking. Their names are Ernest, Scott, and William and they are embroidered in gold and silver on spines of leather, cloth and paper. I have been to their homes and

I see his face in a frame hanging on the wall, a slight gash just above his left eye. Comforted by the knowledge that he is looking down on me, I pull up the chair at the table in the room with the view overlooking the cathedral across the river. I take out the small notebook I have been carrying in my back pocket, and putting pencil to paper, I write that sentence for which I have been searching.

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Inspired as a result of his hunt, Mr. Grasty embarked on a new journey: Writing his first novel. Read an excerpt: http://in-the-garden-of-eden.blogspot.com/
Inspired as a result of his hunt, Mr. Grasty embarked on a new journey: Writing his first novel. Read an excerpt: http://in-the-garden-of-eden.blogspot.com/